Autumn here isn't a consolation prize for missing summer. It's a season worth planning a trip around in its own right.
The North Pennines in autumn is a different kind of beautiful to the posts we've been sharing on our social media posts through June, July and August. The heather that starts to purple in late Summer begins to fade to hues of rich copper and rust. The bracken burns amber across the hillsides. The valley trees turn golden and the rivers fed by the first Autumn rains { fingers crossed!} run with real energy and force.
The light does extraordinary things here in October just as it does all year round.The low angle of the sun catches the landscape at its most dramatic. Our ‘golden hour’ here is a thing of beauty. Photographers who come in Spring often come back in October just for this.
And then there’s our night fall. If you've never stood outside in genuine darkness and looked up at a truly dark sky, this is the place to do it.
In our most recent blog post we wrote that this October marks the tenth edition of the North Pennines Stargazing Festival, running from 16th October to 1st November. With expert astronomer guides and nearly 30 events across the area, the programme includes stargazing nights at Grassholme Observatory in Baldersdale, stargazing suppers at High Force, a star camp at Doe Park in Cotherstone, family astronomy sessions, and on 23rd October a special evening marking Saturn at its closest point to Earth this year.
Staying at Mellwaters in one of our cozy self catering cottages during the festival means you can join an organised event in the evening and return to the farm to find the sky waiting for you with no telescope required. Step outside the cottage door, let your eyes adjust, and just look up at the magnificence of our night sky.
Autumn brings its own rhythms to Teesdale. The waders that filled the moorland with sound all summer start to quieten down and the valleys begin to come alive with redwings and fieldfares moving through from Scandinavia. Barn owls fly over our fields at dusk with increasing regularity as the vegetation drops back. The River Greta, which runs right through the farm, is at its most atmospheric when it’s swelled by Autumn rain. Our very own force of nature just 200 steps from your holiday cottage door.
High Force and the Teesdale Waterfalls
After the Autumn rains the falls at High Force are at their most powerful and the surrounding woodland is at peak colour through mid to late October with deep ochre and rust reflected against the dark rocks. Go on a weekday morning and you'll often have the viewing area almost to yourself.
Bowlees Visitor Centre
The natural starting point for a day in upper Teesdale, with easy access to Low Force and the riverside path to High Force through ancient juniper woodland. The walk is beautiful in any season but in Autumn it's exceptional.
God's Bridge
Right here on the western edge of the farm we have the finest natural limestone bridge in Britain, at its most dramatic when the River Greta runs high around it. Worth the short walk on any afternoon.
Barnard Castle
The town is lovely in Autumn as the summer crowds subside. A morning's wander, a long pub lunch, cake and coffee in one of our many cafes or even afternoon tea at Bowes Museum.
When to come: Mid to late October for the best combination of Autumn colour, dark skies and the Stargazing Festival events we’ve mentioned.
How long to stay: Three nights is the minimum in Blue Tit and Kingfisher cottages. Wren and Robin are available for one-night stays making them ideal if you're walking the Pennine Way or the Roof of England and want a genuinely comfortable, accessible base for a night rather than pitching a tent. Sleep in a proper bed, wake up warm, and head out into the Autumn morning ready for whatever the Pennines throws at you.
What to bring: Warm layers, reliable waterproofs and walking boots you trust. A torch for moving around the farm at night though you may find yourself standing in the dark on purpose, looking up. A red-light torch is ideal for stargazing as it preserves your night vision.
Book early: Particularly around Stargazing Festival dates. If you have specific dates in mind, don't leave it too long.
Mellwaters Barn has four cottages; Wren and Robin sleep two, Blue Tit and Kingfisher sleep four. All are fully equipped, fully accessible, and recently refreshed with new interiors and quality beds. Dogs are welcome in Blue Tit and Wren.
Check availability and book direct for our best price guaranteed or give us a call on 01833 628181.
Photo kindly used with permission of local photographer, Richard Laidler.
You can purchase Richard's Teesdale calenders here.
